By Thelma Taylor
"When Bob
Braun (WLW TV star) comes, I go to the kitchen and fix brown
beans and banana salad if they are not on the menu," Mrs.
McKnight told me one evening while I was eating at her
restaurant. This was not something Mrs. McKnight did just for
celebrities. I went in one night and made the comment, "I
was hoping you'd have cornbread. I'm in the mood for it."
This was 30 minutes before closing time.
Mrs. McKnight
said, "Judy, go fix some cornbread." I insisted that
it really didn't matter. I was more than satisfied with what was
on the table, but I got a whole basket of cornbread with the
regular meal of two meats, nine vegetables and salads, and a
choices of iced tea, coffee, milk or water. This was put on the
table whether there was one customer or 10. There was no limit
to the amount of food that a customer could eat. Everyone was
told, "Eat all you want. If you leave hungry, it's your own
fault."
In the 1960s, she
charged $2.00 a meal. She paid Doris Kelly 45 cents an hour and
gave her her wages when she left work each day. Judy Bennett,
who worked for her in later years, was paid 70 cents an hour and
was paid each day. The cooks and waitresses could eat all they
wanted while they were at work. Kelly said that was nice, but
everyone was so busy there was little time to eat.
The restaurant
was open 364 days a year and closed on Christmas Day. Mrs.
McKnight started work at 4:00 a.m. and finished her day at I
1:00 p.m. The restaurant was moved to six different locations
during its almost 40 years of service to Cynthiana. Location did
not matter. Business was always brisk. Mrs. McKnight never
advertised.
She said people
who ate at her restaurant told others who carne to see if they
were telling it right. McKnight's reputation was spread over a
wide area. A Catholic priest from a boy's camp on an island west
of Victoria, Canada, stopped by each time he went to Florida to
spend his vacation. He decided he wanted to treat his boys, so
he brought them to McKnight's.
Some celebrities
who made McKnight's a regular stopover were Tennessee Ernie
Ford, Groucho N4arx, N4arian Spellman and Bonnie Lou. They ate
right alongside the farm hands, factory workers and college
students. College students would bring their dates to McKnight's
because it was the only place they could afford to order a big
meal. Many times bus loads of draftees during World War 11 would
eat there. There were reservations for large groups, but many
times the buses just appeared and the tables were filled
immediately with home-style food. Mrs. McKnight was proud of
saying, "If they go away hungry, it is their own
fault."
Although she
served plain food, she knew what she wanted and refused anything
but the best product. One day, a cook came to her in the
restaurant and told her that she had been delivered a certain
type of soup bean and the supplier had said he couldn't get the
kind she always requested. She said, "Give those back to
him and tell him to get what I want. He knows I take no
substitutes."
Her customers
knew that, too. The food was always delicious. She started
cooking with her grandmother. He grandmother put her on a box in
a chair at a table to break eggs, peal potatoes and chop apples.
She hated housework, but loved to cook. She had an extensive
collection of recipes. When her husband left her, she had no job
skills to support herself. Her doctor asked her what she liked
to do. She said, "I love to cook." He said,
"Start a restaurant."
There were plenty
restaurants in Cynthiana at the time, She knew she'd have to do
something different. She developed her own style of home cooking
with all you can eat and reached astronomical success with it.
My mother-in-law
made her first trip out of the county to Washington, D.C. to
visit her daughter in the 1950s. She was scarred to death. A man
sitting beside her on a bus struck up a conversation by asking
her where she was from. She said, "Cynthiana."
He said,
"Oh, that's where McKnight's is.' That took away her fear
of the big city. A stranger to the small town was seen eating
regularly at McKnight's. A native asked, "Do you live here.
"
"Yes, he
replied - at meal time."
Mrs. McKnight
received letters, cards and gifts from all 50 state, Mexico,
Canada, Germany, England and Australia. She display them for her
customers to enjoy. She had many offers to buy the restaurant
from large chain restaurant companies. Her answer was always No.
She said,
"They would never know how to treat my customers."